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As part of the Black and British season, Giles Coren returns with a special two-parter of the series that subjects a family to life in decades gone by.

The Irwins are a clan with a West Indian heritage, so Giles is arranging for them to get a  taste of the UK as their parents might have found it on arriving in 1948.

Food was still rationed, but there were lots of jobs and plenty of places to live, as long as you didn’t mind squalor.

The kids are appalled at five of them all sleeping in the same room, though mum Janice is of the ‘keep calm and carry on’ school. ‘Spotted Dick,’ she purrs, when Giles serves up a post-war dessert. ‘I’m in heaven.’